Tuesday was my town’s saints’ day. Each town in Cape Verde has a patron saint and a special day to commemorate the saint. No one goes to work or school, some people go to mass, and everyone eats, drinks, and visits family. I walked up Achada Costa, the mountain community behind my house, with my neighbor Inalida around 9:30 A.M.. We went to Maria’s (my counterpart) family’s house and helped prepare the food. We were making the usual: goat stew with massa (corn spaghetti) and mandioka (yucca root), rice, xerem (corn cooked similar to Middle Eastern couscous), chicken, fijao beans with collard greens and vegetables. I got a surprise phone call from a PCV telling me she was going to pass my town. I hiked back down the mountain to meet her as well as gather chocolates and earrings I brought from America to give to my neighbors.
She and I hiked back up the mountain together. We then proceeded to have the customary multiple lunches that a festa entails. We ate first at Emilia’s (Maria’s family) then at Nana’s (which was the best, turkey with massa!), then finally at Matilda’s (she gave us cake from a box, just like America!). I walked her back down the mountain for her to find a car to go to Peace Corps training. I rested for a few minutes inside my house. I realized I was in the process of getting terrible sunburn, so I took a quick shower and covered myself in sunblock before climbing up the mountain a third time.
On my third and final summit, I began to feel tired. I gave out all the Silly Bandz I brought from the States, they were a huge hit with the kids. I had a juice at one house, gave Tuja from my soccer team a pair of earrings, dealt with some drunks rambling (You are…a beautiful!), and finally made it back to Emilia’s. Maria and I sat outside on stools with kids crawling all over us, both of us too tired to make the forced, trite conversation that is necessary when there isn’t a common language between two persons. The president of our municipal government came. I’ve noticed a pattern with him and parties. He arrives late to all parties in Achada Costa, with an entourage. Everyone who has been up there all day makes a fuss and prepares food for him then we all go sit in the other room while they eat. Once he leaves, everyone relaxes again.
As Inalida and I were leaving we were convinced to have a “cocktail.” I am not exactly sure what it is. I think it might be vermouth? I do not know if that has alcohol in it or not. Anyway we sat and drank. My cup was too full and I was desperate. Somehow Inalida read my mind and told me to leave it on the table. We found a bulelia (free ride) down Achada Costa. Inside my house I laid in my bed. A drunk guy from Santiago, Andrew’s old town, came to the gate outside of my house and told the man I live with that he and I are friends. He said he had fallen in the street and hurt his ankle. He spoke to me in English. I couldn’t be sure if I had met him before or not. I put a bandana on his foot and sent him on his way, supposedly to a grandmother’s house who lives down the road.
My goal this week is to make copies of the financial information for our ADF project. I have been attempting to do this since I’ve been back in country but have had trouble getting the materials. I also need to visit the construction work sites which I have been avoiding. The reason I have been avoiding the sites is that my association is late in paying the workers because we have not yet received our money from the U.S. to pay them. I also need to do some planning for a training session I will give to the new trainees next Tuesday.
This Saturday I will join another PCV in an umbrella march from Praia to a rural mountain town. The walk is supposed to be something like 20 kilometers. It should be pretty killer but a good way to spend a weekend.
I think I am back in the rhythm of life here in Cape Verde. Time continues to pass rapidly. I realized yesterday how I use to dread holidays and parties here but now I like them. I walk around and see everyone in my time. These days pass in a flash.
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